Just Back Report

Places:

I did not like Kuta-Legion that much. It reminded me too much of many other places such as Mexico. So I immediately left for Ubud - the real Bali. 

Lodgings abound. We stayed at Sania House, behind the market on the alley-street that parallels Monkey Forest Road (Jl Karna 7, Ubud is the adress if you want to make reservations). Theodora who runs it and lives there with her brood of young daughters offered a small but lovely pool, verandas outside each bungalow, nice breakfasts, all the tea you could consume. For our extended stay we paid 130,000 rp a night for the three of us. 

Drivers:

After one bad experience we hired a great driver, Wayan Sudani who works next door to Sania House (where nice rooms without a pool were available for 40,000 rp he said). You can go to the painting studio next door in the mornings to find him or send him a postcard at Wayan Sundana, Weja House, Jl. Karna 9, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia, about a month before and he will meet you at the airport. He is young, totally reliable, speaks good English, a careful driver and was protective of us, teaching us the ins and outs of Balinese life. He charged us 150,000 rp for all day excursions ($21). We always bought him lunch and tipped him about 30,000 rp a day and he probably saved us a lot more than that each time we used his services. He and his wife Made are expecting a baby in April and invited us over for dinner our last night. Lovely people, all heart. If you use him tell him you are my friend. We all got close and he will treat you like a god. 

Dances:

Ubud is the central location for gamelan and dance. I went to as many as I could. Read your program to know the story and go early if you want front seats so you can take photos. The ones in the villages (transport provided) are as moving as the ones at the palace. It is very clear that the Balinese are doing this for themselves and their gods, but they generously let us tourists share the experience. Our money just goes to more instruments, costumes, etc to make even grander offerings. Incidentally they consider laughter an offering so the dances include comical sections that can get outrageously bawdy. They may even throw in an English or Japanese joke or two because your laughter is an offering too. 

Food:

Lots of great places to eat in Ubud. Honeymoon Bakery for pastries. The Wayan Cafe is a delight.. It doesn't look like much from the street but then you go into the gardens where you choose your favorite dining pavilion.. Food is excellent. Local warungs are fine. The Lotus Cafe has a spectacular setting, but the Ankerbar specializing in pasta has the coldest beer in town and it's cheap. Try brem with ice and lime, refreshing and local. Ice is delivered most mornings from a plant that makes it from distilled water but you can ask first to be sure. Most Balinese in Ubud were careful of their water themselves. Beware of arak-attacks, a local drink that can creep up on you. If you carry in photos (the one hour shops are cheap there) plan on it taking a while to get the menus because everyone in the restaurant will want to look at your photos first. Likewise, after shopping, they'd all want to see what we bought and ask its price. There is no "caste barrier" between server and served as we have in the States.

Everyone is buddies and family, it seems. They even tried on things we had bought! Maybe it was because we were women traveling without men but I think it's just Bali. 

Shopping:

Ubud is a shoppers paradise but every purchase is a major experience.. You will have to give your life history, hear the merchant's and bargain like mad. Women should not bring clothes to Bali, just empty suitcases. Be firm with the sarong ladies, they can get aggressive. 

Beaches:

are a big disappointment. Lovina is just plain filthy. Amed was clean, the water clear for diving or snorkeling but the beaches pebbly, narrow and no real town. Candi Dasa was better and the town had some character. 

White Water Rafting:

I never thought I'd do something like that (I prefer merry-go-rounds to roller coasters) but it was fantastic. We used an outfit called Bali Safari Rafting . Very professional outfit with well trained guides. The rafting was exhilarating and fun, but the surprise was the country through which we passed - Eden-like. I was overwhelmed by its opulent and quiet beauty. At the end we scaled some steep stairs to the restaurant pavilion Bali Safari runs where a lady greeted us with flowery drinks. Our dry clothes were there so we could shower, and change before we ate the wonderful buffet lunch. As a parting touch they gave each of us a bouquet of flowers as we left. A quality outfit and worth the $48 the half day cost including the lunch and all. 

Warnings:

The traffic will surprise and possibly terrify you at first. Always jump to the side if you hear a horn. Wear good walking shoes like teva type sandals (on sale cheap there) and carry a flashlight at night because the sidewalks are very uneven and often broken. 

Be prepared for garbage at the holiest of sites. It ain't holy until the gods come and they always clean it up before they invite the gods but don't bother in between. 

Never tell a Bali man you are a widow (an invitation to grope you it turns out).  

To get rid of hawkers say "Saya dida junya wan" (I already spent all my money) and avoid Tegalalang except to drive through it because the hawkers are vicious there - we had to call a policeman just to get to the car! To get rid of widow gropers say "Jangan sentu saya" (Get your paws off me, you jerk). Learn the polite greetings for the different times of day and you will make many friends.

Don't touch kids on the head - they are holy, the head their holiest spot and you are getting in the way of their relationship with god)

Transport boys will accost you every third step, just say no thank you politely and don't expect to find one within miles when it's raining and
you need one. 

Not to Miss:

In my opinion anyway. The dances, Tirta Empul (the water temple), the Bali Aga village of Tenganon, Lake Bratan, Lake Batur, the river rafting even just for the scenery. The rides to these places is very scenic. The northeast is generally very lovely. The mother temple is strikingly beautiful but the villagers there are dreadful. They will try to tell you the temple is closed unless they guide you (for money although they won't say that until the end) Just wave your ticket and march on saying you will ask the policeman about it.. The same at Goa Gajah. Poorly run banjars there. 

Some Notes:

The house boys at Sania House were pushed out of shape because we didn't hire their relatives (after the bad experience with one) to drive us until I told them, "Our holiday, our money, our decision." But never in all the time I was there did I hear anyone raise a voice in anger (they sulk instead), see anyone strike anyone, see anyone kick any of the many stray dogs, or even stomp on an ant. The kids are amazingly well-behaved, so are the stray dogs, and even their ducks are obedient! I don't know how they
manage all that, I can only admire them.

I loved watching the little girls at Sania House practicing their dancing using the family temple as their stage.

I loved it when the pet monkey got loose leading the household on a two hour chase around the compound. I asked who set him loose, "The monkey god" was the answer. They caught the culprit using a hand mirror to lure him out of trees.

I liked sipping a brem or lassi in the late afternoons and watching families play badminton on Monkey Forest Road ignoring the traffic that served as their net. I was deeply moved by the village women and little girls carrying in offerings to the temple at the conclusion of a dance while the men and little boys prayed on the dance floor outside using flowers in their prayers as they waited for their women. 

Let Bali just happen to you. Everyone's Bali is different and you will find yours.