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LynneD

 

April 2003

 

 
 

Arrived home Monday morning and felt cold all day. By 11.30pm I was wide awake after 40hrs without sleep. Getting up the next morning was murder. After a full day at work I went to my car to find the battery in my alarm was dead and had to wait one and a half hours for hubby to rescue me. 4 days later I slept in (bliss) and caught up on some much needed sleep. A quick clean of the house, I cooked for the first time in 3 weeks. My step daughter came for dinner, She announced her engagement the week before we left (looks like the trip at Christmas won't happen). Wedding plans overtook the evening (I am in shock at the prices) especially after Bali.

Anyway, I'm not writing a day by day account. Just a few things I thought people might be interested in.
 

We had confirmed tickets to leave on the 25th March but wanted to go the 22nd. We were told the flight was 20 seats overbooked (normal apparently). We took a chance and rocked up at the airport and were lucky enough to get on. There were a few empty seats.

 
Stayed at the Nagasari (opposite the Kuta Art market ) for 2 nights. Booked through a friend. Walk in price 250,000 with breakfast. Cheaper if you book through owners. Nice pool, AC, fridge, TV.

Hired a car for 4 days, 75,000per day (told you can get it cheaper. Stayed at Amed, nice and quiet, fishing village. Drove from here to Lovina. Our car broke down (flat battery). It was quite funny watching my husband trying to explain how to start a car with jumper leads (which they don't have). The "mechanics" had thin wire going from each battery. My husband had to explain the positive, negative. Ian (hubby) told them the wire was no good and they would burn themselves. They learnt the hard way when the wire got red hot and they jumped and screamed.
 

Finally we got going and drove to Lovina, looking for accom in the pouring rain, not game to turn the car off. When we found a place (Villa Agung) we rang the car owner and he brought a new car to us). Villa Agung is a nice place right on the beach with a pool (100,000). We got up early (still dark) and went Dolphin Watching. It was great with about 50 dolphins. 2 dutch guys went the day before and didn't see any so they came out again with us.

It is funny how easily you get false perceptions of people. We were giving out clothes etc to "poor" people along the way. The manager of the Villa Agung (Nyoman) is a lovely guy. I assumed he was doing quite well, being a manager of a motel, etc etc. He invited us to his village for tea. He lived in a small room (the size of a bedroom with his wife and 2 children. When it was really hot the children slept on the verandah. Outside was a small room (the size of a laundry) which was the kitchen. He owned a few pigs. He was saving to build a house with 3 rooms. Every year he collects a few bricks (he had a pile that had been there for years). I learnt a valuable lesson and never underestimated the need of anyone I met again.


It was an overcast day and the rain seemed to settle in around lunch time, as we were going through Lake Bratan, so we drove through. We had been there many times before. We saw many Ogoh Ogoh as we drove around, many not completed yet. It is amazing, the amount of work that goes into them.
 

I have to mention the lovely lady who does my washing in Bali. She runs a small laundry from her home which is located down a small lane on the corner of the street that runs to the Risata and Holiday Inn (Tuban). Our washing is always washed and ironed within a day. My husband wants to know how she gets the material so smooth (I didn't have the heart to tell him it's called ironing). I speak about this not from experience, but as a woman who still owns the iron I received as a wedding present (16yrs ago), and in pristine condition, I might add.


Life is too short to spend ironing.
 

Anyway at $2.40 for 17 items, I'm wrapped.


I did find, however that Kuta is more expensive (for a lot of things actually) I was quite surprised. For 18 items the cost, in Kuta, was 19.000 ($3.80). Still cheap though. This was the norm in Kuta. I always get my clothes washed before my return (no holiday washing for me- or ironing) Just put it away, and easier to pack than dirty clothes.

I generally found Kuta to be dearer for clothes also. I bought nylon shorts (20.000) and singlet tops (15.000). Most places I went to said "you want more like you wear- same price" and were happy to match the price I paid- except in Kuta. I even got called a liar by a few people in Kuta. I just shopped in Legian after that.
 

Clothes have gone up a bit since my last trip. But that was 2 years ago, so expected. I always get a dozen long shift dresses (usually 20,000) but had to pay 30.000 this time.


I didn't buy a lot. I did get a few sets of the lovely woven (sandalwood) placemats. I bought 8 with woven coasters for 85,000. Just over 10.000 for each placemat with coaster. If you are not sure of a price to start bargaining, look in Matahari to get an idea ( you can get it cheaper than that) The placemats in Matahari were 16,000 each. The coasters 3.000 each. That's still cheap if you don't want to bother bargaining. I bought a boxed set of the same 6 placemats with cotton serviettes for 80.000. A lovely gift.

 
I also went a bit mad with the handbags. I bough small ones (cotton with wooden handle) for 20.000. Larger sandalwood for 30.000. My daughter loved them. Her friend has a small sandalwood one (the same) that she paid $25 for. As usual you always kick yourself for not getting more.


The Nyepi celebrations started on 30th March with the Purification Ceremony (Mekiyis). Temple adherents in Bali go to the beaches and bring temple effigies. This begins early in the morning. By the afternoon there are many people there playing instruments and praying. Just before sunset everyone leaves the beach in a parade. At this time we were at S&S so watched the parade as it headed down the new beach road. Everyone was dressed in traditional dress. This is to welcome Nyepi.

On the 1st of April The Nyepi Parade took place. Some shops closed for the 1-3rd April. Many places closed by 4pm so as to prepare for the parade. In Kuta at 4pm tourists are invited to vote for their favourite Ogoh-Ogoh (huge monster dolls symbolizing evil spirits). These are lined up in Legian Road, from Bemo Corner. They are fantastic. It is amazing the amount of work that goes into them. There were 13 official ones, with some smaller ones that the children make. The parade started at 7pm from Bemo corner, although the official viewing area was further down the road. Each village carried their Ogoh-ogoh and performed a dance, played music. They were really great and the atmosphere was wonderful. It was REALLY crowded and a bit stiffling. The crowd was mainly Balinese. I would have hated to be there in previous years with high tourist numbers. I have never been for Nyepi before. If I was to go at this time again I would go somewhere less crowded.


There were a few restaurants, bars open (in Kuta- opposite the art market). Don't know about other areas.
 

Nyepi Day- Basically, relaxed around the pool, watched a movie, read my book. It rained in the afternoon. Staff were Christians and were given a room at the Motel for 2 nights as they couldn't leave. There were a few Indonesian Guests for Nyepi day. I noticed a few Motels had Nyepi day specials.

The following day was pretty quiet. As I mentioned some places closed for 3 days. Half the stalls at the art market were closed. Some places opened after lunch.
 

While the Nyepi experience is one not to be missed, if you were on a short holiday or if it was your first trip it may be frustrating, you do lose a fair bit of time. As we have been many times we did not mind not shopping and relaxing for essentially 2 days as we thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
On the 5th of April was another celebration (for Education). The schools were closed and children dressed in traditional dress and attended ceremonies. This did not affect the shops etc.
 

Overall it was a great experience which I would like to experience again.

We stayed at Nagasari for 2 nights (mentioned previously) and would stay there again. Good, cheap, good location.
 

Stayed at AP Inn for 3 nights. 150.000 double with breakfast. Great location. I would not have considered this area before because of the crowds etc. I stayed there at the end of my stay and would go back if I wanted cheap accom. I paid the same at the Nagasair and in comparing the two I would say. Nagasari had nicer rooms, plus had a fridge and TV. Both had a nice pool but Ap Inn was more open and had a bar and grass area around it.
 

We also looked at Sri Ratu and I would definitely stay in the family room which was really nice. I didn't like the bungalow. The pool is small though and the rooms are right on top of the poool, so not really good if you want to lay in the sun all day.
 

Also looked at a nice place opposite Camplung Mas (can't find the card). It is 4 stories high -only negative (no lifts). Cost 200.000 per double with breakfast. Cheaper if you stay longer. Nice pool. A lovely garden on the roof. Only 2 years old. Nice rooms and bathrooms, AC and fridge. They also had a family room. I love the Melasti street area so would consider here as long as I wasn't on the top floor.
 

We stayed for a week at Risatas in a one bedroom apartment. I don't mind cheaper places but it is nice to have a bit of luxury. It's also handy as hubby likes to get upo early (I don't). So he can make a cupper and some toast and watch TV while I sleep in (I'm on holidays).

We had breakfast at Legian Garden, once at Nagasari (not bad) and at Daddies Cafe (yummy sausages)

We ate at Indo-National twice. Great food, good prices. Chilly crab -35.000. Went back a third time after meeting forumites on the beach- tcoupe (Sue and Tony), DavidUK, the honeymooners ( Norman and Natasha) Hi guys. Met Wen (Wendy) at the restaurant also. They now have a couple who sing a few nights a week which adds to the atmosphere of the place. Couple we recommended the place to went and said the steak was not good.
 

Went to Wayan and Friends and have to say I was very disapointed. I have always raved about this place. I had the most mouth watering steak when I was there last trip. We both ordered the steak and it was tough and tasteless. Others told me the had nice meals there (not the steak). Maybe theres a bad lot of steak in Bali at the moment??
 

Ate at Legian Garden- nice, cheap. Also at Uncle Norms (couple of doors up from Legian Garden. Thev'e done the place up. Food was lovely but servings aren't real big (at those prices you can have an entree and desert to fill you).
 

Went to Secret Garden. The food was nice, quite cheap. The garden out the front looks nice at night.
Fat Yogi's- Had a meal there the night I left. Very cheap and nice. Chicken sate and a soft drink 15.000.
 

As we were on a limited budget this trip we only ate at cheap places but we tried many different foods, which was great.