After much procrastination and finally organising a new registration
here's the JBR from 5 weeks in May/June.
Flew Garuda and arrived early on a Saturday afternoon about 1.30pm. I
had booked into Tropical Kubu again and Gede was waiting to whisk me away
to Legian. I couldn't believe how empty the streets in Tuban and Kuta were
mid-afternoon. Seemed to pick up a bit a we neared Legian though. Dumped
the bags and onto the streets. Ran into all the usual suspects, Dede, Gede,
Wayan & the gang at the Bali Aussie, the Bali Rock staff and then on to
Peanuts and the ritual first Bintang of the trip. Ah, Bintang my love!!
Saturday night is Crazy Horse night, so back to Peanuts later on to say
g'day to the band.
To the beach the next morning after a Bali Aussie breakfast and I was
mobbed by Lindy Lou and the ladies before I left the beach road. I had
come to spend money to try and help but this now looked dangerous. Hardly
anyone on the beach and the sellers are obviously desperate. Thus began my
daily answer "Tidak hari ini, lima minggu lagi!"
Off the beach looking for a bite to eat, I was wandering down Jalan
Sahadewa when a bloke in the front of a restaurant said g'day so I went in
and ordered a beer. Yep, you guessed it, Milton at the Indo. Works out
they are staying in the same little village as I am at Tropical Kubu. Met
Kerry later on and I had found a new local close to home.
The next afternoon at the Indo I had the first of many encounters with
weird and wonderful people, the redoubtable Colm from Ireland. He was
downhearted and understandably so. He had woken up this lovely morning on
the beach at Kuta just before dawn, sans clothes, jewellery, passport,
cash & travellers cheques! He reckoned someone had slipped him a mickey at
a certain nightclub. I will tell you that after socialising further with
the mad Irishman, it may have been the 54th Bintang that did it!
Decided to hire a car, do a little touring and hopefully get Colm away
from the "temptation". Went up to Uluwatu and had a look around the
temple. Colm had a laugh when I was mugged by a monkey for a bag of
cucumber. Later went to the warungs above the surf break and had a drink &
some lunch. Super relaxing. Drove across to the Bali Cliff to show Colm
the pool and the view but we were both surprised that there didn't seem to
be one guest in the place. The only sign of life was a monkey (pesky
little devils) trying to break into a room. On the way out of the grounds
we saw an even stranger sight. A baby Komodo Dragon walking across the
road. Definitely a Komodo as we saw the forked tongue. Not quick enough
with the camera though as he scooted into the scrub. Back towards Kuta and
Colm made a keen observation. I had just sworn at the traffic and he
turned around and said that this was the first time I'd sworn since we
left Kuta in the morning. Interesting theory.
I'd settled into a daily routine now, Bali Aussie or Indo for
breakfast, down to the beach to run the gauntlet of the sellers until
about 1 or 2, lunch somewhere, a little visiting friends about town then
the Indo for happy hour. In Bali you meet some great people & this trip
was no different. Met a lot of forumites for the first time, Roo-Ted,
Arthur the expat Pom, Debbie from Alaska amongst others. Funny tale about
Roo-Ted & his lovely wife Jean. They asked if they could borrow the car to
take their gear over to Sanur. No problems. Forgot to mention the trick
with the remote control for the lock. About an hour later Jean raced into
the Indo as I was finishing breakfast in a panic, "Ted can't get the car
open again!" Hmm I thought, opportunity time. Walked up to the Camplung
Mas with Jean and here is Ted, Red faced in the heat with steam coming out
his ears in exasperation. He virtually threw the keys at me but I think he
then saw the gleam in my eyes. "You do it like this Ted, from the
passenger side." Clunk. Poor old Ted just hung his head, grabbed the keys
and drove off.
Then there was Bill and Janice from WA. Bill was involved in rugby
league in WA and coming from Sydney I played a bit myself so we naturally
started having a gab. Janice turned up after her compulsory shopping and
had a drink and joined in. As it happens they came from Sydney originally
but the showstopper was the fact that Janice and I went to the same high
school and have numerous mutual acquaintances in the Sutherland Shire.
Small world eh!
I decided to try to get Colm out of Kuta/Legian again, still no
passport or travellers cheques. Along with Justin, a photographer we'd
met, we settled on Candidasa. for a couple of days. With Ozzie as our tour
guide (he only spoke about 3 times in the van) we set off for Tampaksiring
first for a look at the temple. Really peaceful and Justin took some
amazing shots with his super-duper camera. Next stop Tirtagganga and the
baths. Beautiful spot but as with everywhere else, just so quiet. You
could see how grateful there people at the gate were when the five of us
paid entry.
OK where were we? Yep, after a stroll around Tirtagganga and Justin
taking a multitude of photos, the decision was onward to Candidasa.
Arrived in the village about 4.00pm and checked out the accommodation. In
town even though there were no guests, the hotels stuck with the posted
price. Oh well! We found a place at the far northern end of town right on
the beach. Seemed alright, five of us with breakfast, no problem. Dump the
bags and lets have a meal. Menus out. Beers and soft drink first (guide &
driver as well). Oh dear, all not cold. OK order food. Around the table,
hamburger, sorry no hamburger! Steak sandwich, sorry no steak! Mei goreng,
sorry no noodles! What do you have? Chicken. Alright fried chicken &
curried chicken and nasi goreng x 2. Well we aren't eating here tonight.
Only chicken left was the giblets. Lesson learnt. Once again lack of
punters to buy the essentials. Do do happens. We decide to have a dip in
the pool to wash off the road grime and then back into town to find a
place for dinner & to hopefully get Justin some good sunset shots over the
lagoon. Great timing as the sun was setting, two groups of local kids. One
gang swimming & having a ball & the other fishing for giants, 30mm
tiddlers. Maybe to supply our hotel with reef fish! They all had a ball
playing up for the big camera which I guess it's all about.
Back to the joint & a quick shower before going back to Rajah's
(spelling?) for a feed and to watch "Bruce Almighty" on DVD. The owner &
staff were wrapped to have 5 customers & it was better when they realised
that there were two who couldn't stop eating (Colm & Justin - entree, two
mains & dessert), everyone kept drinking & Justin was editing his photos
on the digital camera. Big time, great night but early start as we had
booked a boat for the sunrise in the morning. Home James!
Five thirty wake up wasn't welcome but great timing again as we reached
the other side of the small rocky island offshore as the big red ball
breached the horizon amidst the clouds. We had an hour of this until the
sun finally hit Gunung Agung. Not bad with a band of cloud halfway down.
It was just a fantastic morning. The other boats caught two giant dolphin
fish and fun was had by all upon our return. The next situation was
different. Breakfast is included, "To eat or not to eat, that was the
question!” Oh why not! So so but we are off.
Through all the backloads up the slope of Agung for one last stop at
the temple at Bangli as there was a ceremony that day. Oh well missed the
ceremony but caught the cockfight with the locals. Funny at first as we
were the only foreigners but later a few buses turned up. Down the road to
Colm's new favorite village, Bangbang, & Justin was able to get some off
the rural Bali photos he was after. The old man with his buffalo plough in
the paddies & the duck herdsman in the afternoon. Everyone is tired now so
back to Kuta/Legian ASAP. Did I say tired, straight to the Indo & a beer
as we paid the guys.
To digress while I remember, when I moved into Tropical Kubu I thought
this is great, back again, two couples in the house, the screaming kid
seems to be quiet. Oh no! next morning at about 7.30 an obviously elderly
man and women began talking at 85 decibels on the balcony next door. Had a
go for a couple of days before finding out the story from the people in
the house. John, Joan, Doug & Jo ended up being great mates for the next
four weeks after the explanation of the old guys. Hey life's too short.
And anyway the screamer started up again shortly anyway!
Unfortunately I like to listen to live music and it was in short supply
while I was there. However, you had Crazy Horse at Peanuts on Saturday
nights, different bands at the Garden View each night, the three piece
acoustic band at the Indo three nights a week & a few others but not in
the Legian area. The key to this story is that I have known most of these
guys and gals for quite a few years and get asked to come up and have a
sing. No problem, it's Bali for God's sake! Anywaaaay, walking past the
Legend one Sunday night, electric band, cool, I'll come back. The band
stopped dead and the lady singer from the Indo-National band raced out and
said come in and sing with us! OK but after a few songs a lady from the
crowd walked over and asked if I lived in Bali? No. Do you manage the
bands here? No! Husband wanders over with the same questions? Still don't
understand.
Just a couple more tales, this is getting too long. As I have said
previously, you meet some classic people in Bali. One of the best I have
met over the years is Bob Marr from Melbourne. Back again & having quite a
few hard nights at the hand of Ngurah from Peanuts as well as the rest of
his mates. G'day Bob. Another was Milton's nephew from Hong Kong, Deano.
He only had four days. Man, he came he saw and he conquered. Great man,
great fun.
It must be said that this was the first trip back since the bombing and
the first time I was in a taxi going past both sites, I cried big time.
Understandable you say! No, I was having a beer one Sunday afternoon about
5.00. A bloke from Melbourne sat down and we started to have a bit of a
chat. I asked how long was he in Bali? He pulled his wallet out and said I
lost these people at the Sari Club, two sons and my daughter-in-law. Oh
man, gobsmacked! What do you say?
But there is redemption after all. There was a young guy over there by
the name of Daniel(not that it is a problem but he is MILDLY handicapped)
who was turning 20 while we were there. Time for Miss Piggy! Kerry &
Milton went to the piggery and this time Kerry wimped out and bought the
black and white pig. Cooked unbelievably, Dan the man and everyone else
had a great night. A couple of Kiwis fought over the pig's eyes, ears,
nose, cheeks which was gross but we had a night that nobody particularly
Daniel will ever forget.
Down to the last days and running out of money. Walking up Jalan
Melasti to say goodbye with a day to go when I hear a shout. "Mitch,
Mitch, I found it!" I turned around and found my seller friend Nyoman
running towards me. He said come with me to my shop. So I did, as you do.
He raced in and brought out the treasure for me. A silver and turquoise
bangle to match a ring I have. The story to this , is that I asked him
four years ago to try and find a bangle to match the ring he had sold me.
He didn't forget. Let us not forget and keep going back to Bali to
support our friends despite the bomb in Jakarta yesterday.
They need us. I still think though that we need them even more. The
smiles, the kids, the whole attitude. I just love the place.
Mitch