Travel Report

by

Sally from Seattle

July 2000

I traveled to Bali from Seattle, with my 14-year-old daughter, in mid May, on Eva Air. We flew deluxe class, which was essentially the same as business class yet only $200 more than economy. The large reclining seats, service and private video screen were all a bonus for such a long flight. The only negative thing was the airport in Taipei. 

Day 1

We spent the first two nights at the Pansea Puri Bali in Jimbaran Bay. It is a very lovely boutique Balinese style bungalow resort, with beautiful gardens, lotus ponds, a wonderful relaxing pool, and on a nice quiet beach with all the beach amenities. The staff was extremely friendly. The bungalows were charming- done in white with beautiful wood accents and thoughtful thoughts. The bathrooms were quite large (with a sunken bathtub). They opened onto a private walled garden area with an outdoor shower, a patio with a table and chairs, and surrounded with plumeria trees and tropical plants. There was also a front veranda. - The best of indoor/ outdoor living. 

The Pansea was a little slice of heaven and the perfect place to begin our two-week vacation and recover from jet lag, and to adapt to the heat. We spent our time swimming, laying on the beach, having beach massages for $5.00 along with manicures and pedicures, Shopping and bargaining at the beach stalls, walked to the seafood beach restaurants were we enjoyed the gorgeous sunsets. 

Day 2

We got up early in the morning and during breakfast watched the local fishing boats come in- the sea seemed to transform into a maze of color. It was a very beautiful site. We walked to the local morning market, bogie boarded, indulged in another massage. We walked down to the Intercontinental. It was a very large resort; the rooms were nice, but typical of an intercontinental anywhere. The gardens were nice, but very spread out and a long walk from the rooms to the beach. 

We then called Agung Suta Wibawa- who turned out to be a godsend for the duration of our trip. We went to check out Nusa Dua. It felt to new, with enormous hotels, not the Bali I enjoy, but I prefer the small friendly boutique hotels. We then headed to Uluwatu Temple. A Beautiful site set high on the cliffs overlooking the crashing waves of the ocean. The monkeys greeted us- a little aggressive. The highlight was the Kecak Dance, which we watched with the sun setting over the temple. The beginning of our emersion into the Balinese Culture. 

Day 3

We moved to the Alam Kul Kul resort at Kuta (fortunately late in the day). WHAT A DISASTER! The hotel was still under construction and Kuta was a complete culture shock. We ended up walking through the dirty streets and eating at a very weird restaurant, with a bunch of drunken Aussies. The beach in Kuta was ok; there were a lot of hawkers. All there really is in Kuta is big shops that you can find anywhere. 

Day 4

We checked out in the morning, even though we paid for three nights and we decided to go to Ubud. We called Agung Suta to drive us, but before we left I wanted to check out some other hotels in the area. The Padma had cheerful rooms, pretty gardens but a huge complex- next to the Legian Beach. The bungalows were ok and very basic, but pretty gardens and beach for the prices and is next to Kartika Plaza. We also looked at the Four Seasons- exquisite, but very pricey. The Ritz was too remote. The Oberoi was wonderful- Beautiful Bungalows, and great beach. 

Then on to Sanur.

I like the established laid back feeling of Sanur. I don't usually like large hotels, but the Hyatt was an exception. Very lush gardens, a beautiful spa; the tide was out so there was no beach. The fishermen were out in hordes on the tide flats. It looked like a surreal painting. We visited the Tanjung Sari, an older hotel, with very charming and unique bungalows, and a lovely setting. I thought Sanur had a special charm, with wonderful restaurants, shops and very lush. 

We stopped in Mas to see the wood carvers. We bought some silver in Celuk and watched the batik process. 

We headed to the Begawan Giri (outside of Ubud), where we spent the next four nights. It was an amazing place. A huge estate with five-villa complexes- our villa was built into the jungle, surrounded by water, with walls of glass, and a large veranda suspended over the river and waterfalls. We had all the amenities imaginable, including our private butler- 4 villas shared a large infinity pool and outdoor living area and dining, but it felt very private. After our butler brought us dinner, Agung returned to take us to a full moon village temple ceremony. It was fascinating learning about the Hindu Religion. We watched the Hindu people in their traditional dress give their offerings and receive holy water and put rice on their heads. We stayed and watched a beautiful Balinese dance and were very touched by the Balinese of all generations mesmerized by the dancing. It was very emotional observing the love and devotion of their community, family and religious believes. Which we were to find throughout Bali (except for the hawkers). 

When we were to return back to Begawan Giri at midnight, the staff had waited up for us, now I know how my teenagers feel. 

Day 5 

The next morning a guide took us hiking through the property. The views of the jungle, rivers and shimmering rice terraces were spectacular. It was a very steep hike to the spa but what a setting! The spa had outdoor bales with mosquito nets, set on a clearing in the jungle overlooking the Ayung River. It was surrounded by crystal clear natural pools with waterfalls cascading down. We had the most wonderful massage and I splurged on a foot reflexology. What a special and spiritual place. We were so relaxed it was difficult to make the assent back up to our villa. We later went to Ubud and ate at the Café Wayan (wonderful!) and then attended a Barong Dance. The next morning we went trekking through the rice fields and villages, (the Balinese were celebrating the Day of Knowledge) and so we stopped at an elementary school and watched the children celebrate. On our trek we walked past numerous women colorfully dressed and beautifully adorned with layers of fruits on their heads, taking their offerings to the temple. Mundro, our trekker/guide was a gem! Very informative on local customs and rural life. We went to his village to meet and have coffee with his charming family, we found throughout Bali that trekking was a great way to interact with the people, observe their customs and enjoy the natural beauty, which you are not able to do from the inside of a car.

We then returned to the enchanting Begawan Giri spa for a two-hour session with a spiritual healer. She is known for her energy work. She identified and unblocked areas in my body where energy was not flowing properly. She was amazing. I felt completely balanced afterwards and was beginning to feel the Balinese good karma. 

Day 7

We met with Wayan Kamar, who was recommend from the forum to go furniture shopping. It was a very unsuccessful day, huge warehouses full of furniture it was very overwhelming along with it being very hot. We will save the furniture shopping for our next trip. We then did our did our usual evening activities, which became a topical routine- shopping at the market going to dinner and then seeing a dance. While in Ubud we ate at The Café Wayan, Lotus Café, Casa Luna and Lotus Lane (just ok). We attended a Barong, Legong, a shadow puppet show, and the sprit of Bali dance (which was a combination of all the dances and was memorizing). We had become hooked on the dancing and music which such an intrinsical part of the culture. 

Day 8

We had breakfast by the pool while Silva, our butler packed for us, since we were moving to the Amandari for two nights. It was hard to leave that beautiful place and the wonderful staff whom we had become such good friends with, but in my opinion it also had it's downfalls, it was a little to far away from Ubud and a place for the wealthy who really want to get away and be pampered. I do not fall in to that category yet being a travel professional I was fortunate to visit this unique resort. Then to the Amandari. The rooms were a little worn and the staff was a little stand offish for the prices that you pay, yet the setting was outstanding and the service was very good. But how much time do you spend in your room any way. We had hired Nyoman Nepoyana who was waiting for us when we arrived. He was also recommended on the forum. He took us to his family village for a celebration of a baby's birthday. His family extended wonderful hospitality to us, which we were beginning to find throughout Bali. He then took us walking through the rice terraces to a local temple, which had beautiful rock carvings, which he explained about to us he told us lots of wonderful stories and was a very caring man. Then we headed on to the Elephant Cave, after that we went back to Ubud to satisfy our addiction for shopping. 

Day 9

We went river rafting; we used Sobek and had a blast! Not the most challenging river rafting, but definitely a fun day. 

Day 10

Dewa Adiwisma picked us up and we headed to the North coast. We stopped at a very touristy restaurant overlooking the rice terraces where we enjoyed an Indonesian buffet lunch. We then drove to the Ulundanu Temple at the lake at Bedugul. What a magical and peaceful site. It was surrounded with beautiful botanical gardens. We took the road from Munduk to Seririt, driving high into the mountains through coffee plantations, layers of fog and some of the most beautiful scenery in Bali. Yet, we were driving at break neck speed in order to make it to Pemuteran before dark. I was sorry to miss the waterfalls. We stayed at the Matahari Beach Resort. A luxurious, Balinese style resort with gorgeous gardens and pool, beautiful bungalows with exquisite woodcarvings throughout. The beach was not great and it was a little on the quiet side. Which was fine because we were tired. 

Day 11

After a great breakfast we headed to Menjangan Island, a day of the best snorkeling ever! It surpassed Tahiti for the varieties of beautiful fish. The numerous verities and brilliant colors of fish were unbelievable. We snorkeled out to the wall, which was awesome, a lot of the coral was dead however. It was a great boat ride back to the Matahari, with the mountains of Java on one side and the mountain peaks of Bali on the other. It was another great day! We got back to the hotel in the late afternoon and headed to Lovina. We were suppose to stay 2 nights at the Matahari, but Dewa convinced us to move to Lovina, which I regret because I would have liked to seen more of the area in north west Bali. So we set out at break neck speed again, we checked out the Puri Bunga- a great resort, but the masseuse had already left so we ended up at the Sol lovina- it was the pits! Big and dirty! But I did get a great massage. 

Day 12

At 5 am we headed out to see the dolphins. It was a little touristy- lot of boats following them around, but they were fun to watch and we had some ok snorkeling and watched the awesome sunrise. We got back and Dewa whisked us off again. Lovina did not impress me much, but we didn't get a chance to see much. Dewa was always in a hurry. We headed to the Damai Resort- very remote but beautiful. Then we headed to the east coast. We were stopped at the hot springs and were attacked by hawkers, visited the Buddhist Temple -which was wonderful! It was cool to see a different kind of temple and the Buddhist temples are beautiful!!, then to Lake Batur, viewed the volcano and visited a temple. Then drove through sideman, viewing the enchanting rice terraces on route to the east. It was a long day of driving, but the ever-changing scenery of the mountains; rice terraces landscapes and remote mountain villages were magical. We were supposed to stay at the Amankila, but we decided that we wanted a more casual atmosphere (but Amankila is spectacular). After checking out the Water Garden and the Puri Bunga we choose the Serai. It lacked that charm of the other two resorts, but was right on the beach, had complementary transportation, bikes, good trekking, boogie boarding and really good rates. We hung out in Candi Dasa that evening had a great time, talking and laughing with some of the local Balinese. We had a fabulous prawn dinner for under $10, for two people. 

Day 13

We trekked in the pouring rain through remote villages, rice terraces, rivers and breath taking scenery to Tenganan Village. A traditional Bali aga village with the icot and basket weavers. We watched the weaving process and shopped for baskets. We then went back to our hotel; we had planed to site see in the afternoon but instead chose an afternoon by the pool. We swam, played badminton with the staff and went to the spa to be pampered. That night we went to an incredible show at the Amankila while watching the beautiful sunset. 

Day 14

Agung Suta picked us up, we were so glad to see him again! I had wanted to experience some of the other drivers that were recommended on the forum, but Agung had seemed to click for us the best. He took us touring on the east coast through more spectacular scenery, to the Tirtagangga water palace and the Amlapura area. He then took us to the artist village of Kamasan. I loved the east coast and wished we had spent more time there. He took us to a to the home of an artist friend of his, where we bought a fantastic painting, and then headed Gianyar to buy some local textiles and visit the evening market. We had planed to spend our last two nights at the Oberoi Hotel, in Legian Beach, but Katy and I wanted to go back to Ubud. We checked in to a garden villa at the Komaneka- what a gem! It was small, friendly, with lovely villas and with in walking distance to everything in the village. We wanted to see one last dance performance that night, we had obviously become hooked on Balinese dance and music, and of course we wanted to shop some more. 

Day 15

We went to the early morning market, where we had to buy the largest bag possible to stuff all of our sarongs, woodcarvings, paintings, dresses, baskets, cds, masks… Then Agung picked us up and took us to his family village to join in the their morning procession to the river, to get holy water to take back to their temple, for the beginning village ceremony. We met some of his family and his friends, while at his village. The beauty, spirituality and the joy of the celebration and the people really touched us. It was perfect way to spend out last day! We then drove through Mengwi to see the Taman Ayun Palace. We decide to save the Oberoi for another trip and made our way back to the Pan Sea. We were sorry to say good-bye to Agung. What a wonderful man he was! He never rushed us and made sure that we saw everything possible. He always drove us late into the night, and was patient and fun to be with. When we returned to the Pan Sea we were greeted so warmly by the staff, we felt like we were back home. Katy wanted to check out some of the stores in Kuta that night but we soon discovered that going back to Kuta was a mistake. The cab driver took us to a Kuta Seafood- a big tacky restaurant, with an awful dance performance. But it least made leaving the next morning much easier. 

Sorry this is so long and tedious but so many memories keep coming back. Especially the gentleness and wonderful hospitality of the generous Balinese people. The numerous ceremonies, dance, music, vibrant colors along with the beauty of the island, certainly makes me understand why Bali is called the Island of the Gods! It is truly a unique place.