|
Just Back Report Connie |
||
|
July 2001 |
||
|
This trip was a big turning point for me. I've always admired people (read: women) who travel alone to the third world -- and never thought I was up to the challenge. I've proven myself wrong... and cant wait to do it again very soon!
THE FACTS: I flew EVA airlines from LA to Taipei (five hour layover) then on to Bali. I paid the extra $150 or so for the Evergreen Deluxe Class... and it was worth every penny. Nice wide seats with plenty of leg room and a good recline. They cant feed you enough on this airline! Five course meals every few minutes! I took the advice of another forumite and got a Diners Club Card before my trip and therefore had access to the Business Class Lounge at the Taipei airport. DO THIS!!!! It was great! I had a long hot shower, coffee and snacks, checked my email and relaxed! Highly recommended!
I was one of only about 3 westerners on my flight to Bali from Taiwan and I spent most of the flight dosing. Upon arrival in Bali -- and after standing in the immigration line for an hour -- I found myself without any of the proper forms which are meant to be given out during the flight. (Seems I was missed.) The immigration officer was none to pleased with me and I got marched to the back of the room to fill out my form, then marched back to the back office <gulp> to get my stamp <whew!>. It was very intimidating! I had a similar experience in customs since -- again!-- I didnt have any paperwork. Oy! Inexperienced travelers beware.... make sure you get all the necessary paperwork!
My friend, Mike, picked me up at the airport. He has a soap making business and has been living on on the east side of Bali for 4 years now. We headed to his village of Jasri, in Karangasem...
Nothing could have prepared me for the Road Warrior style of driving in Bali! But it didnt take too long to realize there really is a method to the madness. I was surprised how quickly I adapted.
I spent the first 3 days of my trip in the small village of Jasri. This was a great place to decompress and begin getting into the Bali groove. I feel so fortunate to have a friend firmly immersed in the life of a Balinese village. Michael has mastered not only Bahasa Indonesian -- but also Balinese -- and has endeared himself to his fellow villagers (giving me near celebrity status in Jasri as his honored guest). It's true what everyone says about the Balinese -- they are gentle, curious, loving people, and it would be easy to miss their authentic nature if your only real contact with them is as a potential customer. Do yourself a favor and take the time to get to know a few of them if you can.
While in Jasri we visited a beautiful white sand beach that can only be reached by way of a 4WD road... but that didnt stop us from taking the mini-wan down! Since I was there with a group of locals, we ended up eating a feast of fried fish, rice and vegies prepared in a shack on the beach. It was against my better judgement, but I survived without incident! (or Bali Belly) ..and it WAS yummy.
On my 4th day I head to Ubud -- and the Honeymoon Guesthouse. The Guesthouse is gorgeous! The staff and service were fantastic. The breakfast (from the menu of their bakery and restaraunt) was outstanding. And... the HG now has the added benefit of a house masseuse, Totok. (I want to marry this man!) He is trained in Chinese Accupressure Massage -- which hurts soooo good. Visit him, and reward him kindly. He is MOST appreciative. I cant recommend this place highly enough! And they are currenly expanding, so soon they will have several additional rooms. :-)
I loved Ubud! The people, the sounds, the smells, the atmosphere, the rice fields,the FOOD! the shops. While there I met White Devil and he shared his some of his vast knowledge of the area with me -- including some favorite restaraunts. The Devil knows his food, and I benefitted greatly from his wisdom. The Devil also knows a lot of people... and despite my best efforts to avoid him <wink, wink> I found myself running into cohorts and childhood friends who "just happened to be on there way to meet him for lunch!" There is a large web of expats in Ubud and if you know one... you know them all! I'm not sure yet if this is advisable! ;-)
Sadly, I only had the opportunity to visit one spa (Nirvana) which was nice... unfortunately someone cranked up what sounded like a riding lawn mower (not likely, I know) right outside my room about halfway to never-never land... and it sort of ruined the moment... Anyway, I loved Ubud (and the HG) so much I decided to cut my trip to Kuta short so I could return or a couple more days... but for now, it was off to Kuta to meet up with some forumites...
I had no reservations for accom in Kuta but decided on the Three Brothers in Legian. I think I was so enchanted with their pool and garden that I didnt realize there was no AC in the room. Oh well. I did okay without it. Three Brothers was a big dissapointment after having stayed at the Honeymoon Guesthouse. It just didnt have much character. And the food was just "okay." But otherwise it suited me fine. I got daily massages in my room from Wayan and Made for 2,500. The ladies WILL FIND YOU near the pool if you want a massage. They are very sweet and I told them I'd tell all my friends to get a massage from them when they stay there.
While in Legian I met some forumites at S&S. (including Debe and Maree.) A good time was had by all and it was great to meet Sammi & Sussie and see all the photos of other forumites. I had a hard time finding S&S, but with the help of one some of the other beach vendors I finally made my way to them. I knew they were at a red ice chest on the beach... I just didnt know there was a red ice chest every 10 feet! Just remember, Sussie has a big white floppy hat with here name across the front.
The next day I spent about an hour with our brother Zontius! (What a kind and gentle man!) ... then hired a taxi (not a blue one) to take me to Kuta Square. I DID ask him to use his meter and we agreed on a price before I got in... then he proceeded to try to sell me on numerous other "side trips." Finally -- after I said "no, really, all I want is to go to Kuta Square" he stopped trying to sell, and just POUTED the rest of the way. (hehehehe!) This was the first of many taxi rides. And EVERY taxi driver did the same thing (except for the pouting.)
Kuta square overwhelmed me! (Low blood sugar?) I think -- on another day -- I could have done some serious shopping damage here... but, it would NOT be at Matahari! I was very disappointed with this place. It was like a big Kmart. (not what I expected -- or maybe it was that blood sugar problem?) I spent about an hour in Kuta and got the first taxi out! I headed straight for La Lucciola, which was fantastic. Although I felt just a LITTLE silly dining at this romantic location alone. But I'm glad I didnt let that stop me.
The next day I met an Australian couple and we hit it off so well I joined them for a trip down to the temple in Uluwatu, and then over to the surf spot -- which was very cool. I also found out where all the good looking single men hang out on the island! Of course, the only thing they're interested in is the next set of waves... On the way back from Uluwatu we happened across a beautiful white sand beach (Padang Padang) so we hiked down for a quick swim... wished we'd had more time here. It was really gorgeous ... and for those of you who like to bare all, this seemed to be the place for it. We finished the day at Jimbaran Bay. I hadnt made good notes on Jimbaran (didnt realized how many fish shacks there were to choose from!) so we were a bit unprepared and didnt choose the BEST place, but it wasnt so bad and it was great sitting on the beach having dinner and watching the sunset.
The next day it was back to Ubud and the HG for more of my favorite food, and to pick up some clothing I'd had made. I also attended a performance of the Barong dance and found it spellbinding.
My last 3 days were spent back in the village Jasri... on my final day Mike and I (along with 6 of the boys who work for him) piled into his van and drove first to Amed for snorkeling (where Mikes Balinese came in handy, scoring us 6 snorkels for 60,000) ... then to a waterfall that we hiked into and stood under for a most exillarating pounding!... and finally to the hot springs in Lovina (aaahhhh)... We had about as much fun as one can have with water in one day... afterwards we stopped at a Warung and I (the big-spender from the US) bought all 8 of us dinner for a wopping $12! And it was darn good!
|
||
|
Food:
|
||
| Contact Connie | ||